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1974 Porsche 911 RS Project brought to you by Nathan Pizzo, a Web Designer by trade, and Porsche builder by passion.

Simulation of this yellow Porsche is slowly becoming reality by Spring 2009. Sooner if possible! Thanks for visiting!

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Wednesday 04/01/09 Headliner going in ...

Pictures soon... Instructions: (by Pelican Parts)

    Porsche sunroofs are one of the most confusing items if you’ve never worked on one before.  With so much of the mechanism hidden away, it’s difficult to figure out what is wrong with the roof.   A hesitancy to disturb the headliner, combined with a lack of public knowledge on how to make repairs, has left many sunroofs inoperable.

In reality, the sunroof is quite simple and very easy to repair.  The sunroof motor drives two cables that move the roof forwards and backwards in a track mounted to the car.  The primary problems with the sunroof involve the cables breaking or the roof leaking.   This project will go over the details associated with complete sunroof removal and renewal of the cables, the motor, and the sunroof seals.

 

[Click on Photo]


Figure 1:
Replacement Sunroof Parts


Figure 2:
Sunroof Motor

 

Figure 1 shows some of the pieces that you need to effectively repair and renew most sunroofs.  The velvet/felt seal around the outer edge mounts to the inside edge of the chassis in the front and sides of the sunroof opening.  Moving inwards in the photo, is the sunroof cable and transport mechanism (left and right required).  The cable and the mechanism are integrated so that they have to be replaced at the same time.  Inside the inner circle is the rear sunroof seal (at top), the rear sunroof guide with plastic insert (left, two required), a front lifting pad (center, four required), and the small triangular plastic lift piece that helps push the sunroof into its home position when closed (right, two required).  Not shown is the rear flat rubber seal that mates the rear of the sunroof to the car.

The first step in repair is to gain access to the sunroof motor.  The coupe cars have a zipper that runs along the WIDTH of the headliner in the rear of the car.  The sunroof motor is located near the rear of the car, and can be reached by unzipping the headliner, and removing some of the sound deadening panels (shown in Figure 2).  Be careful unzipping the headliner, as the fabric can get old and may rip when you pull on it.  Also be careful with the foam insulation that is attached to the panels that cover the motor.   The spongy material has a tendency to break down and flake off after many years of aging. Remove the panels, and above them you will see the sunroof motor and transport mechanism.  Be careful removing these panels, as the foam is sometimes quite old, and can easily flake off.


Figure 3:
Cable Mechanism
 

Once you have the panels removed, you can clearly see the sunroof motor and its mechanism.   In order to remove and install the new cables, the motor mechanism must be disconnected.  Release the mechanism from the sunroof cables by removing the two screws that hold it to the motor bracket.  The mechanism should remain attached to the sunroof motor, and can hang by the small flexible coupler that connects it to the motor.  The edge of the cables should be clearly visible, where the gear mates to them, as shown in Figure 3.  Now that the cables are loose, the sunroof should be able to be removed.


Figure 4:
Pulling Back Headliner
 

Proceed to the front of the passenger compartment, and examine the headliner that is installed into the sunroof.  This headliner piece is simply pressed into place by spring clips, and covers all the mounting hardware for the sunroof.  Remove this sunroof headliner by pulling down on the edges of this piece.  Grab an edge and pull downward, and the metal snaps should disengage.  Figure 4 shows this procedure.  Remember to only pull down on the piece that is attached to the sunroof, and be careful not to damage the rest of your headliner.  After you get a good grip on this sunroof headliner piece, it should simply pop out of the sunroof.  The clips that hold it in place are similar in principle to the ones that hold the door panel to the door.   If you need to slide open the roof a bit to gain more leverage, you should be able to push it now that the cables are disconnected.

Once this headliner piece is loose, slide it back towards the rear of the car.  At this point, the attachment points for the sunroof should be clearly visible.  On each side, there is a guide piece attached to the sunroof towards the rear of the car, and also a guide piece that is attached to the sunroof cable.  Remove the bolts that attach the sunroof at these four points, and the sunroof should be able to be easily lifted out.  Make sure that you place the roof in a safe location. 


Figure 5:
Sunroof Channels


Figure 6:
Sunroof Channels


Figure 7:
Sunroof Seal on Body


Figure 8:
3M Super Weatherstrip 80001


Figure 9:
Sunroof Seal on Sunroof


Figure 10:
Sunroof Seal on Body


Figure 11:
Sunroof Seal on Sunroof


Figure 12:
3M Super Weatherstrip 80001

 

Once you have the roof removed, it should be apparent how the track assembly works.  The cable is attached to a guide that runs inside the aluminum channel.  The motor pushes this guide forwards and backwards to open and close the sunroof.  At this point, it’s advisable to completely remove all of the aluminum channels from the top of the sunroof and clean them.  The air deflector plates at the front of the sunroof should also be cleaned (Figure 5).  In order to install the new cables and travel mechanism, you need to remove the channel that holds it in place.  Simply unscrew the main aluminum channel and any others that may  block it from the sunroof top, as shown in Figure 6.  Pull out the old cable and mechanism.  Make sure that you clean the channels completely prior to their reinstallation.

Again, make sure that you remove and clean all inner sections of the track and also the air deflector plates.  It’s quite common for these areas to become dirty and sticky, which then stresses the sunroof cables.   I don’t recommend using any grease in the sunroof mechanism for a couple of reasons.  The heat from the sun has a tendency to melt the grease and make it drip inside the car.  Also the grease attracts dirt and debris that will stick to it.  The sunroof channels will be open to the air and wind when you are driving along; dirt and debris will find its way in there.

On the roof itself, you will want to replace the two rear channel guides that have plastic inserts, and also the small triangular shaped plastic pieces that help to lift the roof up into its closed position (Figure 8). Also replace the small plastic lift pieces if they are worn (Figure 9)In addition, I recommend replacing the sunroof seals.

New sunroof seals help finish the job correctly.  There are a total of three seals, two that go on the sunroof and one that goes on the body.   The right side of this picture shows the seal that is mounted to the sunroof.  This seal is glued onto the roof itself and winds it’s way around three-quarters of the roof, ending where the white arrow indicates in Figure 10.  At the rear section of the roof, a similar seal is glued to the roof itself, as shown on the left by the green arrow.  This seal must line up perfectly with the one on the body when the roof is closed.  When cutting and gluing these seals, make sure that you line them up carefully.  Finally the rear sunroof seal, shown by the yellow arrow is a rubber seal that is glued on the rear flat-portion of the sunroof, as shown in Figure 11.

With the aluminum guide channels removed, carefully place the sunroof seal onto the body and glue it in place using 3M Super Weatherstrip 80001 (see Figure 12).  On the sunroof, glue the rear strip and the remainder of the sunroof seal to the roof itself.  Refer to the photo accompanying this project for a clearer understanding.

After the seals have been replaced and the guide rails installed, the roof can then be reinstalled back into the car.  Make sure that the rear guides are fed into the sunroof channel, and the front of the roof is mounted to the guides that are attached to the sunroof cables.  The HEIGHT of the sunroof can be adjusted by rotating the small nuts that are located under the front channel guides, while the fastening screws are loose.  These guides also lock in the left/right position of the roof as well.  The rear HEIGHT of the roof can be adjusted by altering the location of the screws that mount the rear guides.

A little-known fact is that Porsche is no longer supplying the original sunroof cable assemblies for the pre-1989 cars.  The only new ones available are the ones for the 964 series (1989 C4 and later cars), and need to be modified to fit into the earlier cars.  There are two modifications that need to be made.  Firstly, there is a felt strip that is wound around the cables, presumably to clean dirt out of the tracks.  This felt makes the cable stick on the early cars, and needs to be removed.  Using a small pick, carefully remove the felt from around the cable.  If it comes off in one piece – you’re lucky.   Most of the time it will require some effort to get all of the felt off.

In addition to the removal of the felt, you also need to grind down the edges of the guide piece attached to the end of the cable.  On the 964 cars, Porsche enlarged the diameter of the sunroof cable guides (the long pieces that run the length of the car).  As a result, the guide piece for the 964 cable will not fit into the guide for the pre-1989 cars.  You need to file down both the top and bottom edges of the guide piece on the cable until it fits smoothly into your sunroof guide.  An alternative would be to upgrade to the later-style 964 guide pieces, but these are rather expensive to replace.

Another curious fact worth noting is that the sunroof cables are not symmetrical.  If you look at the replacement left and right cables, you would normally think that the part was incorrectly manufactured.  However, this is not the case.  Compare the new cables to the older ones, and it should become apparent how they fit into the guides.

Once the roof is installed and properly adjusted in place, reconnect the motor to the cables.  Simply bolt together the drive mechanism – there shouldn’t be any adjustment involved.  Test the sunroof motor for proper operation.  If all goes well, then reinstall the soundproofing material, zip up your headliner, and dig out the suntan lotion.

Master Cylinder Overhaul:

[Click on Photo]

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Figure 1: Foot Pedal Area

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Figure 2: Removing Retainer Pin

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Figure 3: Luggage Boot

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Figure 4: Removing Brain

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Figure 5: Removing Duct Hose

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Figure 6: Disconnect Electrical Connections

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Figure 7: Loosen Vacuum Hose Clamp

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Figure 8: Disconnecting Brake Lines

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Figure 9: Brake Booster Bolt

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Figure 10: Master Cylinder Attached to Booster

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Figure 11: Carefully Tighten "Stay Bolts"

     The car used in this technical article is Bob Tindel's 1983 911SC, but other models with the vacuum brake booster are similar.

Bob's Disclaimer

     Correctness of this repair is critical to the safe operation of your car.  If this repair is done improperly, you could be fatally injured or killed (after all, the brakes are only one of many things that can stop your car...)

Air Conditioner Repair Reveals Brake Master Cylinder Leak

     First, a little story on how I found that the brake master cylinder on my car was defective.  During a recent trip, the ambient temperature was unseasonably warm, so I turned on the air conditioner, but the blower didn't work.   In troubleshooting this, I first checked the AC fuse and relay on the fuse panel in the luggage boot.  Both were good.  In further checking, I found that the wire from the AC compressor clutch had rubbed against the pulley, wearing through the insulation.  I repaired this fault, but still no joy.

     Previously, I had upgraded the AC evaporator fan relay to the later style that has an external 15-amp fuse.  This relay is located in the "smuggler's box" in the floor of the boot.  To access the smuggler's box, pull out the carpet in the bottom of the boot.  The lid of the box is then visible.   The fuse was indeed blown.  After it was replaced, the AC worked fine.

     However, upon opening the smuggler's box, I noticed a small amount of liquid in the groove around the edge (Hmmmm-the only liquids in this part of the car are windshield washer fluid and brake fluid).  The liquid was brake fluid, coming from the brake master cylinder junction with the brake booster.  This is where the fluid leaks out when the seals in the master cylinder have failed.  To find this defect earlier, check the bottom of the brake booster for leakage periodically.

Checking the Brake Booster for Correct Functioning

     Before disassembly, it is a good idea to check the booster to ensure that it functions properly, so that it can be corrected at the same time as the master cylinder if it is defective.  Here is how to make sure it works right:

1. With the engine stopped, depress and release the brake pedal several times to remove any vacuum retained in the booster.

2. Hold down the brake pedal with medium effort, and start the engine.

3. If the brake booster is functioning properly, the brake pedal will give slightly underfoot as the booster takes effect.

Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Assembly Removal

CAUTION:  Exercise care when working with brake fluid near any painted surfaces-spilled brake fluid can cause serious paint damage!

     This is one of those jobs that looks harder than it really is.   The brake master cylinder, brake booster, and brake master cylinder are removed as an assembly.  Then any necessary repairs or replacement can be done on the bench.   If the master cylinder is leaky, I recommend replacing it rather than rebuilding.   The cost differential is not great, and a replacement unit provides all new parts, including brake light switches, correctly assembled.

     The first step is to disconnect the operating rod.  To access this rod, remove the driver's side carpet, and then the driver's footboard.   One 10mm nut at the bottom center, and a locating tab at the top hold the footboard in place.  It is easier to remove the footboard if you peel off the rubber pedal covers first-that way, you don't have to disturb the adjustment of the rubber clutch pedal stop on the footboard.  (Figure 1)  The throttle rod just unsnaps from the back of the accelerator pedal

     After the footboard is out, remove the lock pin at the top end of the operating rod.  On some models, the pin has an integral retainer that just snaps onto the operating rod clevis.  Other models have a separate retainer.   Snap off the retainer, and remove the pin.  (Figure 2)

     Next, remove the brake master cylinder mounting bolt, which is located inside the cabin on the luggage boot floor plate.  (Also Figure 2)  You don't need to disconnect anything else under the footboard.

     The rest of the work will be done in the luggage boot.   Remove the carpet from the bottom of the boot, and remove the fiberboard dash cover at the rear of the boot.  The cover is held in place by four 10mm cap screws, two on the top and two on the bottom.  (Figure 3)  There is a flat washer and a lock washer on each screw.  Be careful not to drop anything in this part of the boot, because it will probably fall into an irretrievable place.

     If your car has cruise control, remove the rectangular cruise control "brain" by unplugging the cable from the bottom.  Then remove the brain itself (two Phillips screws), and the brain mounting bracket (two 10mm cap screws).   (Figure 4)  This gives a little more room to work.

     Disconnect the paper/wire AC duct hose from its inboard end at the plastic plenum.  Gently bend it up out of the way, to get better access to the master cylinder.  You may also wish to remove the plastic duct hose above the paper one.  (Figure 5)

     Remove as much of the brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir with a rubber bulb syringe.  Put some rags under the master cylinder to catch any spills.  This will make the job a bit less messy.

     Disconnect the overflow hose from the reservoir.

     Disconnect the electrical connectors from both brake light switches.  (Figure 6)

     Loosen the brake booster vacuum hose clamp, and disconnect the hose.  (Figure 7)

     Disconnect both brake lines from the master cylinder.   (Figure 8)

     Remove the bolt from the brake booster brace.  (Figure 9)

     Remove the four hex nuts from the base of the brake booster.   (Also Figure 9)

     Carefully lift out the brake booster/master cylinder/reservoir assembly.  Again, use caution not to spill brake fluid on any painted surfaces.

Torque Value for Brake System Fasteners

     Don't let the terms "Foot-pounds (Ft/lbs)" and "Newton-meters (Nm)" confuse you.  There are complicated formulae to convert these two, but for the real world the relationship is 4 Nm equals 3 Ft/lbs (i.e., 100 Nm equals 75 Ft/lbs).  The easiest conversion is simply to multiply the torque in Nm times .75, so 25 Nm equals about 19 Ft/lbs.

Here are the sizes and torque values for the fasteners involved in the repair:

 Location Tool Size (Thread) Torque-Nm (Ft/lbs)
 Master cylinder to brake booster 13mm (M8) 25 (19)
 Brake booster console to trunk floor 13mm (M8) 25 (19)
 Brace strut to console 17mm (M10) 46 (35)
 Brake lines to master cylinder 11mm (M10 X 1) 14 (11)
 Bleeder screws in calipers (front) 9mm  3     (2)
 Bleeder screws in calipers (rear) 7mm  3     (2)

Replacing the Master Cylinder

     The next part of this procedure can be done on the bench.   Drain the as much of the remaining brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder reservoir.  Disconnect the two rubber brake fluid hoses from the reservoir to the top of the master cylinder.  Remove the two plastic fittings from the top of the old master cylinder, and insert them into the rubber fittings on the top of the new master cylinder.

     Remove the two hex nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, and separate these two units.  (Figure 10)

     When you finish bench bleeding the master cylinder, you may want to reinsert the rubber plugs temporarily into their openings to make reassembly with the brake booster cleaner.

     Install the rubber O-ring on the master cylinder, and reassemble it to the brake booster.  Torque the two hex nuts to 25 Nm.  These are called "staybolts", and if they are stretched or broken, replacement of the brake booster is required, so use caution when tightening them.  (Figure 11)

     Reconnect the reservoir hoses to the master cylinder.

     Reinstall the master cylinder/brake booster assembly, and reconnect the brake light connections, brake lines, and vacuum hose.

      From inside the car, reconnect the brake operating rod and reinstall the master cylinder mounting bolt.

NOTE: On some cars, the two rubber hoses from the brake master cylinder reservoir to the master cylinder trap the cable for the ventilation system control valve.  If so, you can loosen the tiny nut that holds the end of the cable, unsnap the cable housing retaining clip, and pull the cable free, so the master cylinder can be removed.  The tedious part is putting the clamp back in place after the master cylinder is reinstalled.  If you drop anything in this location, it can be difficult to recover.  To prevent loss of this clip, tie a piece of dental floss to it, and snap it in place with a pair of long-reach needle-nose pliers.

Bleed the Brakes

     Using your favorite method, bleed the brakes to purge all of the air that was introduced into the system during this repair.  It is good practice to bleed the entire brake system several times, starting with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (RR) and ending with the closest (LF).  This is a good time to completely flush the brake system of the old brake fluid.  During bleeding, keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off to prevent more air from being introduced into the system.

Final Inspection

     After you finish bleeding the brakes, you should have a firm brake pedal that engages at about thirty to fifty percent of its travel.  Check the tightness of all of the fasteners, including the operating rod and master cylinder mounting bolt, and check the brake lines, master cylinder and booster for any brake fluid leaks.  If all is correct, reinstall the dash cover and luggage boot carpet.   Reinstall the footboard and carpets in the cabin.

     Carefully road test the car at low speed, away from other traffic.

     You may wish to bleed the brakes again after a few days of driving to ensure that all trapped air bubbles have been removed from the brake system.

Reset Brake Warning Light

After brake repairs are completed, the brake warning light on the dashboard may be on.   It can be reset by briefly disconnecting the battery ground strap.

Self-Congratulation

Give yourself a big pat on the back!  You just saved a significant amount of money.  The dealer estimate for this repair is $354.

 

01/17/09 - 01/19/09 - Added Mirrors, detailing interior. Painting all NON-Yellow surfaces rust-o-leum semigloss black. Starting to look pretty killer.

More Photos Soon.

01/14/09 New subject: Velocity Yellow,
an inspirational color.

Plates for the car? Sound it out... V-loss-e - T. = VELOCITY.
The color of the car is Velocity Yellow. Appropriate don't you agree?

DEFINE VELOCITY: Rapidity of motion or operation; swiftness; speed.
 

 

TO SEE EVEN MORE VISIT THE PRE 2009 PAGE >

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